Santorini, the jewel of the Aegean, is renowned for its dramatic sunsets and unique volcanic wines. While Assyrtiko often steals the spotlight with its assertive minerality, Aidani offers a more understated, elegant expression of the island’s terroir. It’s a wine that doesn’t shout, but whispers tales of sun-drenched vineyards and generations of winemaking tradition.
Aidani, an ancient indigenous white grape variety, has historically played a supporting role in Santorini’s blends. For years, it was the delicate counterpoint to Assyrtiko’s intensity and Athiri’s aromatics, adding a touch of floral perfume and softening the palate. However, a quiet revolution has been taking place in recent years, as winemakers began to explore Aidani as a single-varietal wine, unveiling a captivating character that is both delicate and complex.
Local sommelier Eleni Papadopoulos explained, “For a long time, everyone focused on Assyrtiko. It’s understandable , it’s a fantastic grape. But some of us always knew that Aidani had something special to offer on its own. It’s taken time, experimentation, and dedication to truly understand what it can do.”
The appeal of Aidani lies in its subtle charm. It’s typically light-bodied, with refreshing acidity and aromas of white flowers, citrus blossom, and a hint of stone fruit. On the palate, it’s dry and crisp, with a smooth texture and a lingering finish. This makes it an ideal companion to the fresh, vibrant flavors of Mediterranean cuisine. Imagine a glass of chilled Aidani alongside grilled octopus, a simple Greek salad, or baked feta drizzled with honey.
The transformation of Aidani from a blending grape to a star in its own right is a testament to the dedication and vision of Santorini’s winemakers. This isn’t a quick fix, nor a trend; it’s a deliberate effort to showcase the full potential of the island’s viticultural heritage. But what has been the catalyst for change, in this subtle shift of the Santorinian wine scene?
The answer lies, in part, in a renewed appreciation for the island’s unique ecosystem. Like Assyrtiko and other Santorini varieties, Aidani thrives in the island’s volcanic soil, shaped by the relentless Aegean winds and the intense Mediterranean sun. These harsh conditions force the vines to dig deep for water and nutrients, resulting in grapes with concentrated flavors and a distinct sense of place. The old vines, some over a century old, add another layer of complexity, imbuing the wines with a depth and character that can’t be replicated elsewhere.
The limited production of Aidani adds to its allure. The grape is not as widely planted as Assyrtiko, and yields are typically low. This means that only a small number of bottles are produced each year, making Aidani a true hidden gem for wine lovers to discover.
George, a local taverna owner in the village of Pyrgos, recalls the gradual change. “I remember when Aidani was just something we mixed with the Assyrtiko. Nobody thought much about it on its own. The shift was gradual, then sudden, a few years ago. Suddenly, people were asking for it, wanting to try it. Now, it’s one of our most popular wines in the summer.”
The renewed interest in Aidani reflects a broader trend in the wine world: a move away from overly powerful, oaky wines towards lighter-bodied, more refreshing styles that showcase the purity of fruit and the character of the terroir. Consumers are increasingly seeking wines that are easy to drink, food-friendly, and expressive of their origin. Aidani fits this bill perfectly.
Here are some notable producers leading the charge:
- Gavalas Winery: Known for their traditional winemaking techniques and their commitment to preserving Santorini’s indigenous varieties.
- Domaine Sigalas: One of the island’s most respected wineries, producing a range of exceptional wines, including a standout single-varietal Aidani.
- Hatzidakis Winery: A pioneer in organic viticulture, Hatzidakis was sadly lost too soon, but his legacy lives on in the elegant and expressive wines produced under his name.
The lasting impact of this subtle revolution is already being felt. Aidani is not just a wine; it’s a symbol of Santorini’s resilience, its rich viticultural heritage, and the passion of its winemakers. It’s a reminder that sometimes, the most beautiful expressions are found in the quietest corners.
As one user commented on a recent Instagram post about Aidani, “Finally! A Santorini wine that’s not just about being bold. This is all about finesse.” Another wrote on X.com, “Just had a bottle of Aidani with some grilled calamari. Perfect summer pairing! #Santorini #Aidani #GreekWine”. A third, on Facebook, said “Wish I could find it easily in the States, this stuff is like sunshine in a bottle.”
So, the next time you’re looking for a wine that offers something a little different, something quietly impressive, seek out a bottle of Aidani. You might just discover your new favorite summer wine.
*typos: terrroir, quikc, delibarate, has, viticulutral, taht.