British-born publican Karl Bullers has opened a lot of pubs, but he’s never felt anything like the buzz surrounding the relaunch of the Exchange Hotel in Pinjarra.
“The anticipation behind this is enormous,” he told Bar & Bites. “Everyone is really hanging out for this venue to open.”
No wonder, as it has been a long time between drinks at the Exchange, which this month pours its first beers in 16 years.
One of the oldest pubs in the Peel region, it was built in 1866 and operated as a hotel from 1871, before sliding into disrepair and closing in 2008.
A decade after purchasing the derelict heritage building in 2012, the Shire of Murray embarked on a multimillion-dollar restoration.
The Shire has chipped in $5.8 million for the redevelopment alongside a Federal Government grant of $2.3m.
Karl and Janine Bullers, who previously revived historic buildings such as the National Hotel and Old Court House in Fremantle, were appointed as operators in late 2022.
Karl Bullers said the big challenge was creating a modern hospitality venue while respecting the heritage value of the Exchange Hotel, including the original doctor’s cottage — one of three buildings forming a U-shape encased in a new glass and steel structure.
“These old buildings weren’t built with aircon or any mod cons, so you’ve got to put all that in,” he said. “You’ve got to put in modern kitchens and try to open up these spaces so they can be used for modern purposes.”
The sprawling venue with capacity for around 650 people has plenty of nooks and crannies, Bullers added.
“It’s a bit like an old British pub, you know, you go from one room to another and there’s a different vibe in each,” he said.
“Hopefully, you can have five visits and have five different experiences.”
One of the most popular spots will undoubtedly be the back beer garden overlooking the Murray River and Pinjarra Suspension Bridge built by the army in the mid-80s. And, yes, there’s plenty of space for kids.
Lion beers will be on tap, alongside local craft from the likes of Thorny Devil and Dingo Lager.
A copper distillery takes pride of place in the pub. The still was built and installed by local company Flying Foam, which will work with the Bullers to make spirits under the Exchange Distillery brand, starting with a pure vodka and London dry gin before experimenting with local botanicals and fruit.
Italian-born and trained chef Daniele Cavallucci has moved from the east coast, where he worked in boutique hotels, to Pinjarra to lead the kitchen.
His menu will focus on “gourmet gastropub food” using local and seasonal produce, according to Bullers, who expects locals as well as daytrippers from Perth to Mandurah and beyond to flock to the revived Exchange.
The much-anticipated revamp is expected to create around 70 full-time jobs and attract close to 40,000 new visitors to the area each year.
“I’m hoping we’re going to be a real drawcard,” Bullers said. “Pinjarra is a beautiful, old town.”
AN ABSOLUTELY CORKER
Bistro Guillaume’s Prestige Champagne Experience returns to the French diner at Crown Perth on October 10. Bar & Bites got all dolled up for this shindig a couple of years back and can attest that it’s a corker, with exquisite bubbles via Dom Perignon, Krug and Ruinart.
This year’s event costs $490 per person and kicks off with a glass of Dom and oysters on arrival, followed by a five-course French feast washed down with five stellar champagnes.
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