We are in the midst of a bakery renaissance. But what does that even mean? To me, it’s not just about the astounding number of bakeries that have opened in the last five years but also the quality of the baked goods they offer, goods that were once cloistered in the kitchens of very nice restaurants or a handful of lucky cities. And New York is certainly one of the luckiest. Where else could three new bakeries open within weeks, each offering something new and exciting? Only in New York!
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Elbow Bread
The long and short: After years working at restaurants like Sadelle’s, Milk Bar, Simon and the Whale and sold-out pop-ups, the pastry chef Zoe Kanan finally opened her own bakery in late October. Elbow Bread is a collaboration with Court Street Grocers in a tiny but lovely corner spot in Chinatown that she calls a “New York Jewish bakery.”
What to get: The pillowy, potato-y knish accented with dill ($7), cranberry ginger coffee cake ($6, gluten-free!), the challah croissant ($6), the squishy sweet potato pretzel ($7), two dark chocolate rugelach for the road ($5) and the miraculously vegan garlic bread bialy ($6), a January special that belongs on the permanent menu.
What to skip: The other bialy options (plain and everything) because they simply pale in comparison to the vegan version.
A word of advice: If you’ve been put in charge of bringing the challah to Shabbat (or just really like challah), braided loaves go on sale every Friday at 9 a.m. There’s even a sweetened mini challah glazed with honey and vanilla. Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
1 Ludlow Street (Division Street)
The long and short: Miolin Bakery is a super stylish bakery in South Slope founded by a former pastry chef and his partner after they began baking sourdough in their apartment during the pandemic.
What to get: The airy, expertly made croissants ($5 to $6) that could definitely compete at the international level. They’re the size of an infant’s head and shatter into crispy flakes with every bite; flavors include strawberry, chocolate, chocolate-hazelnut and plain. Miolin also sells baguettes ($6) that are as beautiful as they are plush and airy. Add some softened European butter and you’re set for dinner.
What to skip: The latticed ham-and-cheese croissant ($8), which is probably delicious straight out of the oven but didn’t deliver after a few hours on display.
A word of advice: The spacious and sunny bakery is a perfect excuse to linger over your croissant and coffee. Take some granola to go. Closed on Sundays and Mondays.
422 Seventh Avenue (14th Street)
The long and short: Welcome Home was opened by two friends (and former employees of L’Appartement 4F, another pandemic-era success story) who decided to strike out on their own. The result is a cute corner bakery with a green exterior in Bed-Stuy.
What to get: The pig in a Bed (Stuy), a clever play on words and an absolutely delicious combination of Paisano’s ground pork seasoned with fennel, maple syrup and cayenne, spread inside a lattice-work croissant ($6.50). The gently spiced morning glory muffin flecked with carrots ($5). For dessert-breakfast, the cinnamon roll with a thick glaze of frosting. Grab one of their three sourdough loaf options ($10 to $12.50) for the road.
What to skip: Weekend lines. Get there early or visit on a weekday (it’s a few measly blocks from the G train). No more lines in 2025!
A word of advice: Coffee options are limited to drip and cold brew, so grab your latte elsewhere. (I recommend Stonefruit Espresso + Kitchen one block away.) Closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
One Reader Question
I recently tried steak tartare for the first time at a friend’s wedding. WOW! Where should I go in New York City for tartare? — Clara
You’ve joined a rarefied group, Clara. Only the brave and true dare to consume beef in this manner and we are the richer for it. A couple options: Cozy Royale’s version with cornichon, shallots and sourdough bread ($17); and, if you want to up the ante, there’s a freaky kangaroo tartare at Foxface Natural that costs $29 because Australia is far away. And the golden rule: You’ll find steak tartare on the menu at most French restaurants.
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